The Brigade Subcommander
By Rico's Watches
Disclaimer: Brigade provided this watch to me for the purpose of this review. I was allowed to keep the watch. The price of this watch as reviewed is $1099 USD.
Brand History and Introduction:
Brigade Watch Company is an independent American based watch brand founded by Army-to-USMC veteran Kevin Ding.
With a foundation of military service, an understanding of what is required in a hard-use tool watch, and a passion for iconic, vintage references, Brigade Watch Co. evolved into a fully self-reliant watchmaker with a focus on U.S. sourced, produced components and transparent manufacturing practices. Their flagship model produced in early 2025, the Subcommander, exemplifies this approach, with U.S. machined cases and dials, thoughtfully engineered bracelets combining riveted vintage styling and modern construction, and a mission to modernize classic Mil‑Sub design while maintaining modern build quality and integrity.
Brigade's open sharing of CAD files and supply chain details earned respect within enthusiast circles, reaffirming that their ambition extended beyond design, to deliver a compelling, American-made alternative to high-end military-inspired timepieces
In the saturated world of microbrand watches and Submariner homages, few manage to stand out in terms of execution and value. The Brigade Subcommander is one such exception. Inspired by the original 5517 issued to the British navy in the 1970s, this modern reimagining is well thought out, incredibly robust and offers Swiss reliability at a fraction of the price of an original 5517 from the era. Brigade as a brand and the Subcommander have quickly become synonymous with quality, value for money and transparency. With all that said, lets dive into this review!
Specs at a Glance:
Here is a quick look at the Subcommander’s specs as seen on the Brigade Website.
- Movement: Swiss Elaboré grade SW200-1 (adjusted to 3 positions)
- Dial: Matte Black
- Markers: Swiss Super-Luminova BGW9 (Highest Grade)
- Case: 316L Stainless Steel with Brushed Top / Polished Sides
- Bezel: Aluminum/Unidirectional/120 Clicks
- Crown: Screwdown crown at 3 o’clock
- Lug Width: 20mm
- Lug to lug: 48.5mm
- Thickness: 12.5mm
- Crystal: Single dome - blue sapphire crystal (hardest grade)
- Bracelet: Signed 316L Stainless Steel with Diver Extension (15mm)
- Water resistance: ISO certified 200m
Presentation and Packaging
First things first, Brigade does an exceptional job with their packaging. Something I have only seen rivaled by brands like Ares (also American made FYI, is this an American thing?). Upon receiving your Brigade watch you are greeted with a wooden mini crate style box adorned with phrases like “Welcome to the Brigade” and “For official use only” in bold block style letters stenciled on the sides. On the sliding top of the box is the Brigade coat of arms logo and brand name. Additionally, you get a wax sealed blue and gold envelope containing a letter welcoming you to the brand. Inside of the box is a black felt lid with a pull tab that is adorned once again with the Brigade coat of arms and name this time in gold leaf. Upon removing that, you are greeted with the watch, a dog tag that is serialized to your watch, extra links (Brigade is classy enough to size your watch for you prior to arrival) and a leather wallet that doubles as a holder for your warranty card. All and all, it is seriously impressive and shows a keen eye for detail that almost no other brands at Brigade’s price point would bother with. It’s refreshing.
Case, Bezel, and Crystal
Before we get deep into this review, let’s address the elephant in the room. This watch is clearly a Rolex Submariner homage. A very very well executed one, but an homage nonetheless. Brigade’s design clearly nods to the Rolex Mil‑Sub 5517, a rare military-issued diver from the 1960/1970s. Rather than making a lazy homage, the brand took great care to modernize the proportions while staying true to the spirit of the original. With its 40mm case, The Subcommander blends classic Submariner design and proportions with modern constructions and reliability, not to mention also made in the beautiful US of A!
Further to my last point pertaining to their country of manufacture, Brigade also documented their design process publicly, an unusual level of transparency for such a young brand and in a niche of the watch space that is often hyper covetous of their secrets. This thoughtful approach gives the Subcommander a sense of authenticity and realness that is hard to find in really any other homage. Somehow Brigade is able to make a watch that is both inspired by history but also feels uniquely their own.
Built from 316L stainless steel, the case is rugged and corrosion-resistant. 316L has been a long standing industry standard for watches and Brigade does an excellent job finishing the case with a combination of polish and brushed surfaces. At 48.5mm lug-to-lug, it’s well-balanced and wearable for most wrists. The lugs are drilled which is always a welcome feature in my book. This allows for easy strap changes and harkens back to the Submariners of olde. The crown guards are nicely rounded and protect the water tight screw down crown. The crown is nicely adorned with Brigade’s coat of arms. The case finishing is precise, clean, and easily rivals some major-brand offerings.
The Subcommander is ISO-certified to 200 meters of water resistance. Brigade pressure-tests each unit to ensure this standard. I love this attention to detail and I think it speaks to Brigade’s apparent practice of not cutting corners and providing top level service and quality.The Subcommander is well suited for all that you can throw at it. A true GADA watch (go anywhere, do anything). The caseback of the Subcommander is also full of watch nerdiness with a series of military markings that are a nod to the original Royal Navy 5517. Featuring the iconic British Crown’s “crows foot” and abbreviations for Great Britain, Royal Navy and the Ministry of defence. A very cool little detail to see that adds a tonne of vintage charm to the watch and lets you gives you more of a glance into the history of the Rolex that inspired the Subcommander’s design.
The 3.5mm double-domed sapphire crystal is a standout feature. It not only adds vintage charm through distortion but also offers modern durability and clarity. Brigade’s choice here was deliberate and well thought out,balancing aesthetic impact with real-world utility. I am a huge fan of nicely domed crystals. It’s hard to put it into words just why I love them so much. Suffice it to say, it adds a charm to the watch that you just don't get with a flat crystal. The domed design provides visual warmth, particularly under natural light. Its anti-reflective coating helps minimize glare. It’s both beautiful and functional, which is exactly the blend Brigade seems to be aiming for throughout the watch.
The Subcommander features a 120-click unidirectional fully graduated bezel with a matte aluminum insert and red triangle 12 o'clock pip.. Each click feels confident, with just enough backplay to mimic the tactile feel of vintage bezels. The teeth provide excellent grip, even with gloves, and the lume pip at 12 o’clock is well-centered. Some may prefer ceramic for “durability”, but the aluminum adds period-correct character and is by far more durable in the grand scheme. Ceramic is great from the stance of reducing scratches and fading, but is much more susceptible to shattering and cracking. Having the aluminum insert keeps the price reasonable and allows your Subcommander to age and patina along with you as you take it on life’s adventures..
Dial and Lume
Brigade took the Subcommander to the next level by offering other dial colors beyond just the standard black. For the no date models, you can get the dial in arctic white, and Marine Nationale blue. For date models you can get the dial in Matte Black, Arctic white and a slightly different color called “Naval Blue”. While I think the matte black is the no-brainer color for this watch, regardless of color, the layout is crisp, highly legible, and devoid of unnecessary clutter. The script on the dial includes the Brigade name and logo below the 12 o'clock marker and then a vintage nod to the original 5517 tritium dials with a circle ‘T” logo, the water resistance and the Subcommander name finally at the bottom in red lettering. Those of you who opt for the date version ( you can pick to go with date or no date) you will have a window in lieu of a 3 o'clock marker. Brigade uses Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9 on the hands and markers, resulting in a strong and lasting blue glow. The sword hands are highly legible and are synonymous with the iconic mil-sub styling. Brigade does also offer Mercedes hands if you prefer a dressier look. The lume application is thick, even, and glows well into the night. Like their cases, the dials are also made in America.
Bracelet
Brigade’s riveted 316L bracelet isn’t just for looks—it’s the real deal. Each link is held with solid tubular rivets, offering strength and a pleasing vintage aesthetic. The clasp is fully milled and features a toolless diver extension. A critique I have is that you are not able to use the full range of the sliding glide lock style clasp because the bracelet links are too wide after a certain point due to the taper. As such you are able to still get about a link and a half worth of adjustment, which is plenty. I am told by Brigade that this matter is already being resolved and a gen 2 clasp will come out that will remedy this matter. Which I think speaks to the iterative spirit that is hard at work at Brigade. Overall, it’s a thoughtfully engineered bracelet that complements the case beautifully.
Despite being a solid steel diver, the Subcommander wears comfortably all day thanks to its curved lugs and 20mm bracelet tapering to 16mm. The case back sits flat against the wrist, and the crown doesn’t dig in. The balanced weight makes it feel solid without being bulky. It’s the kind of watch you forget you’re wearing until you need it. Comfort was clearly part of Brigade’s design criteria.
Movement
Powering the Subcommander is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1, an automatic movement known for its reliability. Brigade uses the Élaboré grade, regulated to within ±7 seconds per day. It beats at 28,800vph and offers hacking, hand-winding, and a quick-set date (on applicable models). The movement is robust, fully serviceable worldwide, and backed by strong long-term performance data. It’s a smart, dependable choice that underscores Brigade’s commitment to quality. One of the things that I love that Brigade did was offer a movement upgrade program. I think its remarkable to see a brand that does not force it’s customers to constantly buy their latest and greatest but also offers the ability to upgrade along the way. I feel like this makes your watch truly feel like a piece of kit, a companion in adventure and most importantly like YOUR watch.
Final Thoughts
The Brigade Subcommander succeeds because it knows exactly what it is: a no-nonsense, military-inspired dive watch built with care. It doesn’t chase gimmicks or overpromise. Instead, it offers a watch that blends iconic history and design with modern materials, build quality and the backing of an incredible group of dudes who legitimately care about their customers. Whether you're a die-hard collector or looking for a dependable everyday watch, the Subcommander is easy to recommend. Brigade has created something rare: a microbrand watch that feels established and intentional. And in today’s oversaturated watch world, that’s a big achievement.
Some things that I would like to see in future iterations of the Subcommander include:
A standard Rolex style bezel without the red marker at 12 and with the 15 minute graduation. The option for bezel “aging” so that guys can get that iconic “ghosted” bezel look right out of the box. A Sea-dweller inspired variant. Other iconic Submariner inspired variants
These ideas I think encapsulate what is so special about the Subcommander as a platform. There are so many directions that Brigade can go with its design. Minor tweaks that make a world of difference for collectors. While the Subcommander is already vintage inspired, I think there is an appetite or an even more vintage edition. Regardless, these ideas are just mine and are totally subjective. Who knows what the future could hold...maybe there is a need for an SBWC x Brigade special edition?
Full disclosure, I gave this watch to my dad for father’s day (early). As of July when I am writing this article, he had worn his Subcommander every day. He has not stopped wearing it to do everything that life throws his way. He has worn some incredible watches and has a stunning collection but something about the Subcommander sings to him just as it does to me and countless others that experience them. It’s a watch that you just can’t stop wearing. This watch has soul and an appeal that transcends time.