A Legacy Forged in Military Service
Barbour jackets are synonymous with rugged style and timeless durability, but beneath the surface lies a rich military heritage. From WWII submarine crews to NATO dispatch riders and soldiers in the Falklands, Barbour has long been trusted by those who face the harshest conditions in service to their country. This article explores how Barbour’s iconic outerwear became a vital part of military history.
WWII: The Ursula Suit and the Submarine Service
Barbour’s military involvement began during World War II with the development of the Ursula Suit, originally created for the Royal Navy’s Submarine Service. The inspiration came from Lieutenant Commander George Phillips, captain of HMS Ursula, who saw the need for better protection against the cold and damp conditions of the North Atlantic.
According to historical accounts, Phillips worked with Barbour to adapt a waxed cotton motorcycle suit into a two-piece outfit more suitable for submarine duty. One version of the story recounts that a trial test involved a sailor being hosed down whilst remaining completely dry beneath the suit. The waxed fabric offered essential water resistance and warmth, both key advantages for crews enduring underwater missions in such a harsh environment. The Ursula Suit soon became standard issue, showcasing Barbour’s ability to innovate and securing the brand's place in military outfitting.
(Above: Lieutenant Commander George Phillips wearing the standard issue Barbour Ursula Suit)
NATO: M12 & M13 International Suits for Dispatch Riders
Barbour’s reputation for producing robust, all-weather clothing continued into the Cold War era with the M12 and M13 International Suits. Initially designed for civilian motorcyclists in the 1930s, these suits caught the attention of military outfitters for their functionality and resilience.
Dispatch riders, responsible for transporting critical messages over long distances, often faced extreme weather while riding motorcycles. The M12 and M13, made from Barbour’s signature waxed cotton, were not only waterproof and durable but also featured protective elements. The suits had a belted waist, high collar, and tight-fitting cuffs which were attributes that made them ideal for wet, windy and unpredictable conditions. Their effectiveness led to their adoption by British Army riders and NATO forces resulting in Barbour becoming an enduring symbol of reliability on two wheels.
(Above: Barbour M12 NATO Jacket and M13 NATO Trousers)
The Falklands War: Solway Zipper, Durham, and Captain Mick Cotton
In 1982, Barbour jackets found renewed purpose during the Falklands War, where British forces battled severe weather in the South Atlantic. Standard issue gear often fell short, prompting soldiers to privately purchase rugged clothing that could withstand the cold, wind and rain. As Ian Gardiner recounts in his book The Yompers: With 45 Commando in the Falklands War.
“We were, in the main, adequately equipped for our foray into this demanding environment … Even so many men had supplemented their equipment with private purchases of gloves, bungees, gaiters, sleeping bags and Barbour jackets.”
(Above: On the right a Royal Marine in the Falklands wearing a Barbour Solway Zipper)
Popular choices among soldiers included the heavyweight Solway Zipper, the hooded and more mobile Durham, and the insulated Gamefair model. These jackets, although not official issue, earned their place in many kit bags for their protective and reliable qualities.
(Above: A Royal Marine wearing a Barbour Durham)
One notable figure of this conflict was Captain Mick Cotton, who served in the 2nd Battalion, Parachute Regiment (2 PARA). Captain Cotton had both the Durham and Gamefair models in his arsenal of supplies. His preference for these two jackets spoke to their practicality in the field. The Durham provided lightweight protection for more mobile operations and the Gamefair offered a heavyweight alternative for additional warmth and insulation during colder moments.
Both designs became desirable for soldiers as they combined Barbour’s signature style with the rugged functionality demanded by military service.
As noted by Charles McFarlane from Put This On there are versions of Captain Cotton’s jackets existing in the Barbour archives today. Some historians believe the archived Durham and Gamefair designs may reflect post-war customisations.
(above: Top - Captain Cotton’s Gamefair jacket. Bottom - The Captain Cotton Barbour Durham jacket from the Barbour archive.)
The Legacy of Barbour
Barbour’s role in military service portrays the story of a company motivated by innovation. Borne by the need for durable, practical and weather-resistant clothing in some of the most unforgiving environments, Barbour has proven time and again that its jackets are more than just outerwear—they are trusted companions in the field.
This legacy of military-grade durability, combined with the brand’s classic aesthetic, continues to make Barbour jackets a favourite for both servicemen and civilians today. Barbour’s continued presence in the modern day stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to quality and resilience, embodying a history of reliability that stretches across decades and battlefields alike.
As Always,
Stay Sketchy.
Josh @watches_and_wax
@watches_and_wax is a UK based Barbour-wearing watch enthusiast and the owner of curated vintage clothing company @theiconicvintageco