While attending District Time in Washington, D.C., I had the opportunity to meet with the Fortis team and spend time talking with Jupp, Fortis’ CEO. During our conversation, I noticed a watch sitting on display and asked if I could get hands-on with it.
Jupp took it off the stand and handed it over to me: "This is the new Marinemaster M-44 DLC."
I was drawn in by the sharp contrast that the gold handset and indices provided against the matte black DLC finish, and upon closer inspection I was surprised to see such a stealthy-looking watch bring an unexpected warmth to the wrist.
Jupp said something that took me by surprise: "You know, we use the same movement as the one in your Pelagos."
Interesting.
"We took them, tested them to ourselves, and it turns out they're not just a nice movement. They're really [freaking] good movements."
Killer looks and a movement that I already know and trust. Add in hooded lugs secured by screw pins and I suddenly found myself looking at an alternative to the FXD I was flirting with—a super utilitarian, extremely secure, hard-wearing tool. And it was different enough from my Pelagos to justify wanting it.
Talk about an introduction.
Following the show, I was in contact with Fortis and they asked me whether I wanted the Gravity or Resin variant. I asked for the Resin as that was exactly what got me hooked at the show.
For those uninitiated, we covered Fortis previously with their Novonaut and Rico did a stellar job highlighting the brand history. In short, for this article—and right off the heels of our podcast—Fortis has strong ties to space exploration that go back to the early 1990s with ROSCOSMOS and the Fortis Cosmonaut watch. If a company is designing watches for the extreme environment of outer space, then you can most definitely rest assured that they will be able to produce a watch that can withstand anything you will throw at it in your earth-bound daily use.
The Marinemaster M-44 has been a mainstay in the Fortis collection, first making an appearance in 1954. This makes the Marinemaster one of the oldest diver's watches out there. Between my research and personal experience with it, I would argue that the Marinemaster family is one of the most historically significant yet grossly underrated dive watch lineups in Swiss watchmaking. The lineup has seen changes that took it from early aquatic sport pieces to true compression divers, and today as a professionally-spec'd instrument.
Fortis introduced the Marinemaster line in the 1950s. Dive watches were still relatively new, and the market had really only been exposed to the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the Omega Seamaster 300. The then-new Marinemaster was not yet a "hardcore" dive instrument—fit for military service—as we see it today. Early references were more elegant sport watches designed for the booming civilian recreational dive scene. This does not change the fact that Fortis positioned the line as being robust equipment and not just wrist candy.
Fortis saw some serious evolution from the 60s to 70s with the Marinemaster lineup. This is where the watch transformed into a serious-use, compressor style diver. These watches used EPSA super compressor cases (cushion case architecture, internal rotating bezels, twin crown layout) and featured bright decompression dials with extremely legible underwater-oriented color schemes. Per my research, the most notable reference of this era is the Fortis Marinemaster ref. 6237.
Fortis Marinemaster ref. 6237, photo: Bulang & Sons
The EPSA case is historically important because it represented one of the major technical approaches to water resistance before modern monobloc and ultra-heavy gasket systems became the dominant tech. This case placed the Marinemaster in the same space as watches from Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Universal Geneve, and IWC.
Despite being a powerhouse lineup in the 60s and 70s, the Marinemaster took a backseat in the brand identity in the 80s to 2010s. This was largely because of the strong association with Fortis and aviation and space. The 1990s saw Fortis being seen as overwhelmingly associated with aerospace. The Marinemaster saw niche reissues, smaller production runs, and enthusiast-focused pieces as its means of survival. 2012-13 saw the Marinemaster Vintage as a reintroduction to modern collectors.
Fortis Marinemaster Vintage, photo: Secondhand Horology
Fortis came under new leadership with Jupp Philipp in 2018. Under his guidance, the brand saw itself repositioned as a hardcore tool-watch manufacturer. Fortis adopted a more cohesive industrial design language and saw modern chronometer movements come to the scene. This is where the Marinemaster became an important, even central piece to the brand.
2021 is where we saw the relaunch of the Marinemaster M-44. Neither variant is a retro reissue (there is a 40mm, the M-40, available but it is not the same as the M-44), but they draw on visual cues and styling from the vintage compressor models. Fortis pushed the Marinemaster squarely into professional end-use territory by offering a watch that combined 500m water resistance, a locking bezel system, a Kenissi-derived Werk 11 movement, COSC cetification, reinforced bridge architecture, and high shock resistance.
The current Marinemaster M-44 is spec'd as follows:
Diameter: 44mm
Lug-to-lug: 48mm (this makes it VERY wearable)
Height: 14mm
Weight: 102gr (head only; mine on rubber weighs 132gr)
Case: Recycled stainless steel (with DLC Dianoir coating on the DLC variant)
Depth rating: 500m/1,640ft/50ATM
Bezel: Bidirectional gear bezel with Fortis Locking System
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
The dial features Fortis' "O-pattern" with applied golden Superluminova markers, with Superluminova X1 (blue glow) used on the markers and handset.
A chronometer-certified, Kenissi-derived Werk 11 manufacture caliber powers the watch and has a 70-hour power reserve.
Today, Fortis' Marinemaster helps position the brand in the same space as Tudor, Omega, and Breitling. There is some Rolex overlap with certain models, but that Crown tends to trend more jewelry-ish than Fortis does being squarely in the hardcore tool space.
That positioning is more than earned.
With this, we have a recipe for a watch that has, to this point, had zero issue handling anything I've been able to throw at it as a land-bound infantryman. This also likely places the Marinemaster family squarely into "fit for me" territory.
Despite the fact that Fortis has a rich, established history in hard-use environments, there are many who slid into my DMs asking for the skinny on Fortis as they had never heard of the brand before. Fortis is a name that is known throughout niche enthusiast circles but lacks the recognition they rightfully deserve in our community.
This absolutely needs to change and the Marinemaster M-44 is the perfect representation of the reason why.
One thing that came up was the initial sticker shock when looking at the various models on their website. Understandably so—for someone to buy something as expensive as a watch like this with minimal, if any, exposure to the name beforehand is a challenge. Especially when we are looking at other watches in the space that are around the same price. While on our podcast, Andreas said something that hit the nail on the head: "Is brand more than 50% of the reason why you buy something, or [are there] other values? It is easy to buy a Rolex because it is a safe buy... Because, yeah, Rolex should be good, right?"
Many people will take that point of view and adopt it to their purchase decisions and the apprehension makes sense but once you go dig around and come to find that they're packing Kenissi movements, made using premium materials, and finished to high standards—while being tested to hell and back—it becomes a little more apparent that Fortis is a viable option.
The Marinemaster M-44 is a worthy competitor for the one watch I regard as THE tool watch our community constantly picks, the Tudor Pelagos.
At US$5,450, the Marinemaster M-44 DLC comes in very competitively against the price range that the "normal" Pelagos line occupies (Ultra, US$6,900; "42", US$6,025; "39", US$5,625) and is more in line with the "hardcore" variants (FXD, US$5,025 and the FXD GMT, US$5,475).
The Marinemaster M-44 is priced between the "regular" Pelagos models and the FXD family.
The hooded lugs, the screw pins, the rubber strap, and the bi-directional gear bezel with the Fortis Locking System, and the available Dianoir DLC finish come together to bring a watch that does not shy away from hard use. In fact, I am less worried about this watch in daily use than anything else I own.
Something that has been told to me on many occasions is that one thing that people value with our Field Reports is that we don't give glittering generalities or cookie-cutter statements.
We get into the facts, highlight the things that nerds like us get excited about, and then most importantly, we talk about how it is really living with the watch. We try our best to answer, "How does this watch fit into YOUR life"?
The first "real" testing of the Marinemaster came just a day after one of the most significant surgeries that I think anyone can go through, and the watch most definitely started to show it was well-suited for my life.
To best illustrate this point, in the days following my brain surgery I found myself repeatedly catching the watch against hospital room door frames, furniture, and equipment due to temporary coordination issues.
After one particularly hard strike against a metal hospital door frame, I looked down expecting damage. Instead, I found paint and metal transferred into the bezel's teeth.
I was more concerned about the door than the Fortis. Drywall, random metal hospital equipment, rubberized plastic components of the hospital bed? None of it stood a chance. (I feel like we can all agree that even in a real austere environment that the only real danger of damage to our watches we face daily aside from shock is that they're going to get hit on things and oftentimes hit quite hard.)
For those who may not be familiar with me, when it comes to watches, I have a type, for sure, and it is a well-designed and built diver. At present, my collection consists of many "tool" watches. The Marinemaster M-44 DLC sits alongside the Tudor Pelagos, Marathon Anthracite JDD, GSAR, and MSAR, an Omega Seamaster 2265.80, Yema Navygraf, a Rado Captain Cook, two Brigade Subcommanders (one being our S.C.74 collab), an RZE UTD8000, Jack Mason's Pursuit Pro, and a few others that I have rarely worn in recent years.
Over the last month, the Marinemaster has been a near-constant companion to me. There are days where I change it out for a different watch, but oftentimes I will find myself swapping back into it after lunch when I can make time to run home for a meal. The watch is incredibly comfortable and sits perfectly on my wrist—whether on the OEM rubber, an MN-style strap, or our DiveCore collab strap, I have no issue with it shifting or getting uncomfortable.
Right now, comfort is paramount. I began post-surgery physical therapy this week, and I was told that my left hand and arm (dominant hand, and the one I wear my "normal" watches on—Garmin on the right 24/7) have about a 30% deficit compared to my right arm and hand. Some watches are genuinely so top-heavy that the balance feels off, and I find myself taking others off during the day (again) only to swap to the Marinemaster.
As I was cleared to return to duty, I found myself heading into the field for a week-long exercise. The Marinemaster sat in my travel pouch alongside an Anthracite GSAR and JDD and ended up being worn for five of the days I was out. The watch has maintained high levels of accuracy since being exposed to sustained fire from belt-fed machineguns (240/249), regular use of an M4A1, and having some exposure to the M320, AT-4, and good ol' Carl Gustaf.
Keep in mind that I set the time the day I received the watch, about a month and a half ago, and have only periodically shaken it to maintain power reserve on the few days that I have not worn it. Since then the watch has remained +/-1 second from my phone's clock. To me, that is absolutely insane. In fact, I have found myself using the Fortis to set time on other watches when they have died and needed to be reset.
One thing that I have really grown to appreciate about the watch is the Fortis Locking System.
At 10 o'clock, what appears to be a helium escape valve is actually the bezel locking mechanism. Depress the crown and rotate it 180* and the bezel unlocks for adjustment. Lock it back down and accidental movement of the bezel becomes a non-issue.
This matters more than most people think.
Over 7 years in uniform, I have seen countless times that heavy rucksacks, plate carriers, and chest racks routinely move bezels on traditional dive watches. Knowing that I can actually use my watch for work without worrying about that gives me more confidence in it as a genuine tool—and yes, with 100% confirmation from Fortis, the Marinemaster M-44's locking system can be used while under water.
The watch checks a ton of boxes for me and even fills the gap I had in my collection that heretofore was only remedied by taking shoulderless springbars and putting them into non-drilled lugs. In my eyes, the watch is absolutely a perfect alternative to the Pelagos and FXD—hell, buy a Marinemaster and you're saving yourself an average of US$360 between all the different Pelagos prices.
Add to the paper specs a unique design language, the availability of a stealthy option from the DLC variant, and a whole family of colors (Amber Orange, Woodpecker Green, Resin on stainless, Black Resin Gold with 18kt accents, and Ocean Blue), you have a winning set of options.
This touches on an idea that Andreas shared in our podcast, wherein he presented the obvious-yet-oft-forgotten and overlooked reality that there are more options out there than the "Big Five" insofar as professional-grade tools are concerned (Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Tudor, IWC).
If you are willing to look, do a little digging and asking around, you'll come to find that there are some truly fantastic options out there for you. As an enthusiast that is also a professional end-user of these tools, that is something that I value. I want to have a watch that I can enjoy and frankly it is FUN having a watch that you don't see every day. The Marinemaster is no exception.
I have had more conversations with "non-watch" people about this watch than I have with any other piece in my collection. You're far more likely to run into someone with a Rolex Sub (Date or No-date) than you are to run into another person wearing a Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC or Stainless. One is a global status symbol and the other is a tangible "IYKYK".
Very shortly after I began posting about the Marinemaster on our social media channels, I was contacted by a community member, Thomas Cofer. He inquired about my experience with the watch, and whether or not I recommended it.
He asked for reasons why he should consider the Fortis beyond the cool aesthetic. The biggest question he posed was pretty honest and straightforward:
"Why should I spend that much money on this when XYZ is in the same price range?"
I presented my case and a short time later he sent me pictures of the Marinemaster M-44 variant that he selected.
After wearing it for a bit, Thomas sent over his thoughts, which are below:
My current collection includes pieces like the Tudor Pelagos, Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean... Ironically, I find myself comparing all of them to my Fortis Marinemaster M-44.
... On the timegrapher, mine runs consistently at about +1 to +2 seconds per day.
The dial is striking ... The crystal has a clarity that reminds me of a Breitling Avenger I once owned... It creates a strong sense of depth and presence on the wrist.
... The case design allows square-end straps to tuck neatly “under the hood,” ... Strap changes are straightforward... the threaded bolt system on each side supports more security.
The Horizon strap with deployant clasp is a strong option. The rubber feels substantial and premium.
On the caseback, there’s a German inscription... it translates to “No appointments and the horizon in sight,” a phrase that speaks to freedom, simplicity, and a life oriented toward the open world rather than the clock.
The more I’ve researched Fortis and listened to their philosophy, the more I believe their approach to watchmaking and customers aligns with my own shift in priorities—toward gear that is purposeful, durable, and meant to be used, not just admired.
A huge thanks to the remarks from Thomas.
Something to keep in mind is that the Marinemaster M-44 has very tight clearances at the hooded lugs. While there are options that work with the watch when it comes to aftermarket straps, there is some trial and error involved. Most nylon and rubber straps I have are just too thick when it comes to navigating the space around the screw pins.
This is not a purchase-killing issue, but something worth mentioning. Thomas and I are going through different strap options to see what ends up working best between all options that we like from 20 to 22mm.
At present, my personal favorite options are a sailcloth offering from Straphabit, DiveCore straps, a cordura-leather hybrid strap from IC13, and elastic options from various brands that produce MN-style offerings. Once we finish running around and needlessly spending money on straps, we might come together and compile a list of compatible options.
There is no issue with the factory rubber; I just like to be able to wear different straps. I love how the watch feels with the OEM strap, and it is very comfortable with zero break-in period (looking at you, Pelagos, with your week-long break-in period).
One issue I have not observed with this rubber is the rash/irritation that I get from many other options, to include premium offerings from top-dollar brands. Fortis states that their strap is "Hypoallergenic FKM rubber. Resistant to heat, chemicals and UV radiation, making the Horizon Strap ideal for all adventures, both on land and underwater."
The biggest problem? I have a wife, and I need to get an M-40 in Serenity Blue like yesterday. (Yes, I can also conveniently wear it as well.)
The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 is a stellar offering from a company that has pushed the limits of their engineering to produce some of the most hardcore and unique watches I've come across. This is not a "cope" for those that can't find a Pelagos through an AD or wholesaler, nor is it an overpriced offering from an unknown.
As an infantry officer, an active dad, gym rat and an outdoorsman, this watch works fantastically. If you are looking at a Pelagos-family watch, but for whatever reason has been unable to commit, you owe it to yourself to seriously look at what Fortis is doing.
The Marinemaster M-44 is one of the most impressive modern tool watches that I have spent meaningful time with. For the money, you're getting one hell of a watch.
I feel like Andreas said it perfectly when he was on the pod' with Joey, so I'll leave you with this:
"If you buy a Fortis, you're part of Fortis.
In the moment you put your cash down, you're part of the game.
You are my ambassador.
I want you to tell your friends that you bought a nice watch for tough jobs."
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