Fortis Shoots for the Stars with the N-42 Novonaut
By Rico of Rico’s Watches
Author’s Note:
This watch was provided to me by Fortis. As always, I will endeavor to be fair and honest in my assessment of this piece. That being said...this watch is awesome. So awesome, I sold my Tudor Pelagos FXD and Breitling Colt as I felt this watch filled a much needed hole in my collection that I was trying to fill with other watches. This watch is no joke. So strap yourself in, ensure all systems are checked and your afterburners are set to full throttle. We are about to rocket into this review. The price of the watch as reviewed is $5050 USD.
Introduction:
The Fortis Novonaut N-42 represents a modern renaissance in the field of space-grade chronographs, carrying forward the legacy of the legendary B-42 Chronograph while introducing a host of enhancements that meet contemporary expectations for performance, durability, and design. Fortis has long been associated with space exploration, with its watches having been part of various space based missions. The Novonaut N-42 seeks to take this heritage a step further by becoming more than just a toolwatch—it aims to embody the adventurous spirit of spacefaring missions while appealing to discerning collectors on Earth. The transition from the older Cosmonaut line to this new, re-engineered Novonaut was not just cosmetic but rather a full mechanical and functional reimagining, marking a bold step forward for the brand.
History:
Fortis has an incredibly rich history surrounding their space watches. One that, in my opinion, is much richer, dynamic and interesting than that of the highly commercialized Omega Speedmaster Professional. Also, as someone who has owned both the Speedy Pro and the Novonaut, if you take the name association out of the picture, the Novonaut obliterates the Speedy Pro in almost every single way. The Speedy Pro is a time capsule from an era where they picked a preexisting watch from the market,tested it, and used it as a space watch. The Novonaut shows what can be done using modern materials and innovation when you build a watch FOR space from the ground up. You’re comparing a musket to an M7. All the above being said, before we dive into what Fortis has achieved at present with the advent of the N-42 Novonaut, we must first look back to the past. All the way to a magical time in humanity’s story… the 1990’s.
(Credit: Worn and Wound)
The Fortis Cosmonaut was a legendary timepiece that represented a significant collaboration between horology and space exploration. Fortis, a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1912 by Walter Vogt, gained recognition for its pioneering work in automatic watches. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that Fortis would etch its name into the annals of space history. The Fortis Cosmonaut chronograph became the official watch for Russian cosmonauts, beginning a legacy of space-tested durability and functionality that continues to heavily influence the design of the Novonaut and tool watch design today.
The origins of the Fortis Cosmonaut can be traced back to 1994 when the Russian space agency, Roscosmos, was in search of a new official timepiece for its space crews aboard the Mir Space Station. After rigorous testing that involved exposure to extreme temperature fluctuations, zero gravity, and G-forces, Fortis watches stood out for their robustness and reliability. As a result, the Fortis Official Cosmonauts Chronograph was adopted as standard issue for Russian cosmonauts, becoming the first automatic chronograph watch to be officially certified for space travel.
The watch itself was designed with the practical needs of astronauts in mind. The original model featured Lemania 5100 movement. Its 38mm case, legible dial, and secure pushers ensured that the watch could be operated easily even while wearing a spacesuit. The Cosmonaut was also built to withstand magnetic fields, high pressure, and physical shocks, making it ideal for the harsh conditions of space missions. It was worn during numerous missions, including long-duration stays on the Mir Space Station and later the International Space Station (ISS).
Throughout the years, Fortis released several iterations and commemorative versions of the Cosmonaut chronograph. These include limited editions that celebrate milestones in space exploration, such as anniversaries of the first human spaceflight by Yuri Gagarin or the launch of the ISS. The design has remained largely faithful to the original, with only subtle refinements over time, maintaining its identity as a functional tool watch. These limited editions often carry unique casebacks or dial designs that reference their spaceflight heritage.
Today, the Fortis Cosmonaut holds a revered place among both watch enthusiasts and space history aficionados. It continues to be part of Fortis’ professional line, symbolizing the enduring intersection of Swiss watchmaking and space exploration. The Cosmonaut would eventually be replaced in 2003 by the B-42 Chronograph.
(Credit: Monochrome)
The Fortis B-42 Chronograph was a notable evolution within the Fortis lineup, representing a blend of military-inspired design and aerospace-grade functionality. Introduced as part of the B-42 series, the chronograph drew on the brand’s long standing relationship with space agencies and aviation professionals. The “B” in B-42 stands for “Basis” (German for “base”), and the “42” denotes its 42mm case diameter—generous sizing intended for optimal legibility. Built upon the heritage of the earlier Fortis Cosmonaut watches, the B-42 Chronograph was developed with similar toughness and precision, utilizing the renowned Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, which offered excellent reliability and ease of service.
The B-42 Chronograph quickly became a favorite among both professional aviators and collectors due to its utilitarian aesthetics, functional complications, and robust build quality. The watch featured a highly legible dial, often with bold Arabic numerals, day-date complication, and luminescent hands and indices, all housed in a stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and gasketed pushers for enhanced water resistance. It also included an internal tachymeter scale and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, making it suitable for both terrestrial and extraterrestrial missions. We further saw features like the block bracelet and bidirectional external rotating countdown bezel make it their debut on the B-42. Although later succeeded by models like the Stratoliner and AMADEE series, the B-42 Chronograph will always remain one of Fortis’ most iconic and significant models in their back catalog as well as the blueprint for the watch at hand for this review, the N-42 Novonaut.
Unboxing:
Upon receiving the Novonaut in the mail, I was greeted by the Fortis “Alpha” box. The Alpha box is a premium packaging set designed to accompany select high-performance timepieces from Fortis, including the Novonaut. Inside the box is, of course, the N-42 Novonaut already pre-sized to my wrist, a 5-year warranty, a performance certificate, and a user manual. Additionally, it provides a reversible screwdriver for adjusting the bracelet and changing straps. The screwdriver is in a layer located at the bottom of the box, hidden under the watch pillow.
The lid of the box has a false top that can be lifted to store your extra links and warranty cards in. The box itself seems to mimic the pattern of Fortis’ hybrid strap with a mix of canvas texturing and smooth rubber.
Sizing and Technical Specs at a Glance:
Diameter: 42 mm
Water Resistance: 200m · 600ft · 20atm
Material: Recycled Stainless Steel
Case Back: Stainless Steel with Ultra-Engraving
Lug To Lug: 51 mm
Lug Width: 21mm
Height: 15 mm
Weight Watchhead: 115 gr
Crown: Screw-Down Crown with Triple Gasket System
Pushers: Quickset Pushers
Gaskets: Performance FKM Gaskets
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating on both Sides
Luminescence: Superluminova®X1 with blue glow
Movement: Space Tested WERK 17 Column Wheel Chronograph Chronometer
Power Reserve: 60 hrs
Bracelet: Block bracelet with screw bars, screw pins, sliding micro-adjustment clasp.
Movement:
(Credit: Fortis)
Typically when I do these reviews, the movement of the watch of discussion is something that I leave until later in the review. However, Fortis impressed the hell out of me with this movement so we are going to dive right into it off the hop. At the core of the Novonaut N-42 is the WERK 17 movement, a proprietary column-wheel chronograph developed in collaboration with the renowned movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret and the Swedish Space Corporation (for testing). This movement offers a robust 60-hour power reserve, a precise 4 Hz (28,800 vph) beat rate, and flyback functionality—key for mission-critical timing scenarios. The choice of a column-wheel over a cam-actuated mechanism also adds to the smoothness and durability of the chronograph function. Fortis put the WERK 17 through its paces in the harsh conditions of the stratosphere, ensuring it could withstand extreme temperatures, pressure fluctuations, and G-forces. The movement’s finishing is industrial yet purposeful, in keeping with the toolwatch ethos, and the exhibition case back gives enthusiasts a window into its mechanical prowess.
Fortis further speaks on the WERK 17’s testing and development on their site:
“The Fortis Werk 17 Automatic Manufacture Calibre redefines reliability with its precision-engineered column wheel chronograph.This extraordinary movement was space-tested in collaboration with the Swedish Space Corporation. Mounted on a gondola carried by a stratospheric balloon, the test batch launched from the Esrange Space Center, soaring into the Stratosphere for 1.5 hours under extreme cosmic conditions. Upon landing in Finland’s remote forests, the movements proved their resilience.The journey didn’t stop there. In 2022, Werk 17 underwent successful trials during a high-stakes rocket campaign, solidifying its status as a pioneering calibre.”
Design, Case, Caseback, Lume and Crown :
It’s no secret that the N-42 derives much of its base design from its predecessor the B-42. While the inspiration is clear, you can see that every feature of the N-42 has been refined, improved and reduced to its most utilitarian elements. This provides the end user with the most up to date, modern, capable iteration of Fortis’ iconic space watch. The dial is built for maximum readability, with bold Lumicast® X1 numerals and hands coated in Super-LumiNova® X1. This setup ensures incredible legibility even in the darkest conditions—an essential trait for space use. The lume on the N-42 easily competes with previous watches I have reviewed such as the Christopher Ward Lumiere, Tudor FXD and various offerings from Ares Watch Co.
The bi-directional ceramic bezel, dubbed the “Sirius Bezel,” is both highly functional and aesthetically pleasing, featuring a 60-minute scale that can be used for mission timing or standard daily activities. The bezel’s tactile action and precise clicks reflect the watch’s high-quality and precision based engineering. These design choices aren’t just for looks—they’re purpose-driven, enhancing the user’s ability to interact with the watch in dynamic environments. The bezel is beautifully radially brushed with strong, firm clicks and aggressive teeth that allow for it to be gripped with or without gloves and easily and reliably turned and positioned.
Dimensionally, the N-42 is substantial but balanced. It has a 42mm case diameter, approximately 15mm in thickness, and a 51mm lug-to-lug distance. These measurements might sound large on paper, but the case has been ergonomically contoured to sit comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes. The lugs curve gently downward, and the watch distributes its weight evenly. Something that surprised me about the watch was how well it fit and sat on my 6.75 inch wrist. It is a heavy watch if you go for the steel version, however, the way the watch stays planted on the wrist, coupled with the Block Bracelet, it wraps nicely around the wrist and feels comfortable and secure.
The triple-gasket screw-down crown ensures 200 meters of water resistance, making it suitable not just for the stratosphere but for aquatic adventures as well. The chronograph pushers are large, tactile, and easy to operate even when wearing gloves—critical in all settings. The pushers themselves are not screw down but do feature gaskets that help ensure the water resistance of the watch. The caseback of the N-42 is clean and spartan with minimal text and a motif of a rocket ship engraved into the back. The words “Fortis Novonaut N-42” and “Space resistant 20 - ATM” are seen around the perimeter of the case back. Below the fins of the rocket ship are the words “Der Echte Treibstoff Ist Die Neugier” in German. This translates to “The Real Fuel is Curiosity”.
Now that we've touched on the caseback, I think that it is important to touch on a unique feature of this watch. It is full of Easter eggs. Little space specific features or nods to historical moments in space travel. Another example of this is the “T-13” marker located at the edge of the running seconds sub dial, a tribute to the last 13 seconds before a rocket launch—one of the most crucial and adrenaline-filled countdowns in space missions. It’s a reminder of the watch’s purpose-built origins and its connection to real-world spaceflight. This detail is emblematic of the Novonaut’s overall design philosophy: functional storytelling through subtle visual cues. Fortis doesn’t overload the dial with superfluous elements, instead opting for details that communicate purpose and precision.
Bracelet:
The Fortis Novonaut’s Block Bracelet is a standout feature of the timepiece. Crafted from the same recycled stainless steel as the case of the watch, the bracelet is innovative and as impressive. Its solid, square links give it a bold, industrial look that complements the Novonaut’s utilitarian aesthetic, projecting strength and functionality in every detail. The bracelet has no taper and attaches to the 21mm lugs via large screwed bars that remind me of something you might see on a Panerai or Elliot Brown. The screw pins in the bracelet are some of the most robust I have ever seen and inspire a significant amount of confidence in their capability. One of the most impressive aspects of the Block Bracelet is its advanced micro adjust system, which allows for up to 8mm of tool-free micro-adjustment. The clasp features a twin button release with the Fortis crown proudly engraved on the face of it. The micro adjustment clasp is easily manipulated via a small circular button that honestly has to be the simplest, cleanest and smoothest micro adjustment that I have ever used. It is original in it;s design and joy to use. Beyond its technical features, the bracelet plays a major role in the Novonaut’s overall identity. It balances the watch’s substantial 42mm case perfectly, enhancing wearability without compromising the bold presence on the wrist. The meticulous brushing and finishing of the metal add a refined texture that echoes Fortis’s legacy of Swiss craftsmanship.The watch that I could best compare its wearing experience to would be the original Tudor Pelagos. This is due to the watches thickness, sense of weight and balance and the way the bracelet fits on and around the wrist. The links feel smooth and are impressively machined for a tight fit. The bracelet suits the watch and serves to provide a unique and mission capable way of adhering the watch to your wrist.
Dial & Hands:
The chronograph layout follows a classic tricompax configuration, with sub-dials at 12, 9, and 6 o’clock, and a day-date complication discreetly placed at 3 o’clock. The sub-dials are tastefully executed with concentric graining, contrasting nicely against the matte black main dial. This configuration not only maintains symmetry but also lends to incredible legibility. The chronograph hands are color-coded in a unique shade or orange that Fortis refers to as “Berlac Fluor Orange”. Additionally, all of the main numerals on the dial are made of solid blocks of lume with “.5” numerals between them. The “.5” feature initially can seem daunting or confusing at a glance to interpret if you’re unfamiliar, but quickly you adjust and eventually come to love the feature as it makes reading the time even more efficient. These choices reflect Fortis’s deep understanding of professional timekeeping requirements and an end user focused ethos in design.
Around the very perimeter of the dial is a 60 second countdown scale, this can be used to time a minute at a time via the chronograph hand or to count town passed minutes via the main minute hand. The day and date wheels are both black with white text so as to blend in seamlessly to the black dial and white contrasting numerals that are found throughout the dial of the watch. On either end of the date window is a triangle. The one on the left pointing down and the one on the right pointing up. Each indicating the direction to move the crown to change their respective day and date wheels. Text is limited on the dial of the watch. Above the date window is the Fortis name and logo, below the window is the word “Novonaut”. Above the 6 on the 12 hour subdial is “N-42”. Below the 12 hour subdial are the words “Swiss Made. That is it for textual denotations and it helps keep a somewhat busy dial from feeling cluttered by superfluous script.
Options:
One of the most appealing aspects of the Novonaut N-42 is the variety of editions Fortis has released. Among the standout models are the Titanium Legacy, Cobalt Blue, and the standard Legacy edition. Each model features distinctive dial treatments and materials, but they all maintain the signature Novonaut DNA. The Titanium Legacy version, for example, swaps out recycled stainless steel for Grade 2 titanium, reducing weight significantly while retaining the ruggedness required for professional use. The Cobalt Blue edition, meanwhile, adds a vibrant touch with its deep, saturated dial color, giving end users some options in styling without sacrificing functionality.
Final Thoughts:
In conclusion, the Fortis Novonaut N-42 doesn't feel like just another watch, it feels like something special, like a tool or piece of purpose built kit. I'm not a chrono guy but this watch is the ultimate tool watch chrono. Feels at home amongst my Tudor and Rolex watches and like a seriously nice addition to the collections. The history is there, more so than in far more expensive watches, Fortis doesn't rely on propaganda or ambassadors to tell their story. They are out there writing their own story through direct action. If the speedmaster is the space watch of the past, the Novonaut is the Space watch of today, steeped in a rich history but developed in the present using the best that modern watchmaking has to offer.
Yes it is pricey, nearing twice the cost of its predecessor the B-42. That may be a barrier for some to get over. My advice to those naysayers would be to go try one on in person, handle one and very quickly it'll become apparent that the N-42 is something special. The Fortis Novonaut N-42 sits in the $4700 to $5,900 USD range, depending on the configuration and strap. While this places it firmly in the upper-tier toolwatch category, the value proposition is strong when considering the in-house movement, space-tested credibility, material quality, and user-centered design. It competes directly with offerings from Omega, Sinn, and IWC, but carves out a unique niche through its bold design language and proven performance in extraterrestrial settings.
-Rico