Watches are small. They go on your wrist and help you track your most valuable resource... time.
They become an expression of who you are. Therefore, just like in life, it is the details that matter. It is the detail that you pay a little extra for.
So, you want to buy a watch but don’t know where to start? Maybe you have not given it much thought, or maybe if you’re like me, you have given it far too much thought and are struggling to make up your mind. I am here to help you. I have been serving in the United States Army Infantry for eight years. During that time, I put many watches through their paces and came to respect higher-end details. But also learned to respect the often-overlooked durability of more affordable pieces. I will provide some background on three different styles of tool watches and some of my overthought opinions on the rationale you may use for buying each one. I will also provide a budget suggestion and a most aspirational “grail” option for each.
Dive Watches
We have all seen dive watches adorn the wrists of hard people in hard places. The dive watch was created in 1938 with durability and water resistance at the forefront of the design process. Since then, they have been continuously innovated and improved. Most dive watches contain unidirectional bezels, which can act as a makeshift timer in and out of the water. Uni-directional means you can only turn it one way, typically counterclockwise. Dive watches can be larger and heftier because they emphasize enduring the elements above and below the surface.
A dive watch is a fantastic place to start your watch collection. First, almost every watchmaker you can think of offers a dive watch. All major and most micro brands will have a dive watch option, so you will have a wide range of watches to choose from when shopping for one. Second, dive watches are built for durability. You will wear this watch constantly and want it to hold up to the life you choose to lead with it. And lastly, it has a bezel you can still use even if you’re not a diver. I have used the bezels on my dive watches for things from airborne operations to PT events or even a cooking timer. It is there to be used.
Budget Diver: Casio MDV-1061A (Duro) ($70)
Grail Diver: Tudor Pelagos (approximately $5,000)
The venerable Casio Duro: a perfect entry-level Diver.
GMT (Greenwich Mean Time)
What is better than being able to tell the time? Being able to tell the time for two (or even three) time zones! GMT-style watches were designed for pilots who routinely crossed multiple time zones and needed a simple way to track them. The addition of the third “GMT hand” on the face of GMT watches adds a bit of complexity but is a highly effective means of timekeeping at the same time. They can be used to track the time zone back home if you are on a deployment.
They can track Zulu time for easy conversions to any time zone. There is less emphasis on durability with GMT watches, but they still hold up great! The movement tends to be a little larger due to the GMT complication, so the watch may be thicker than the dive watch you are comparing. However, knowing accurate time across multiple time zones greatly benefits the right customer.
Most GMT-style watches feature a two-toned bezel, which allows for a better understanding of AM and PM during limited visibility and gives the watch a little more character and style. If you are a world traveler or in the military and planning a trip overseas, a GMT is for you. If you love to see the GMT hand putting in work on your wrist, the GMT is for you.
Budget GMT: Seiko 5 Sports GMT ($379)
Grail GMT: Rolex GMT Master II ($10,700)
Timeless: the Rolex "Rootbeer" GMT Master II
Field Watch
The standard field watch design is simple and effective. It has fewer frills and complications than other watch styles, except for the occasional date wheel. There will not be a rotating bezel; you will only have three hands to mark the time of your current time zone. These watches were made for the military during the First World War and are meant to be legible, accurate, and easy to manufacture. They include larger hour markers and a heavy bit of lume for legibility during hours of limited visibility, usually with lettered markers instead of lines or dots like its dive or GMT counterparts. They contain movements built to last and pair well with nearly anything due to their slim design. This is the “no-frills” option for many who want to escape the standard digital or smartwatch aesthetic—people who crave minimalistic simplicity in their everyday lives.
Budget Field Watch: Timex Expedition Scout ($45)
Grail Field Watch: Hamilton Khaki Field ($500)
The Hamilton Khaki Field
So, knowing all that you know now, you might be wondering. What is the best advice I can give you regarding the purpose of your next watch? It is quite simple. Buy something that excites you! You do not have to buy the watch that everyone else has or that your local jewelry store dealer is trying to sell you.
Personally, I would not buy a watch that does not have longevity in mind with its design. The beautiful thing about watches is that they change hands and move on to the next wearer after years of use. They help carry your legacy, your stories, and the sense of a well-lived life. Buy a watch that you can live your life with. Time is our most precious resource; spend it wisely.
-TripleW (@watcheswinwars)